This article was co-authored by Hovig Manouchekian and by wikiHow staff writer, Aimee Payne, MFA. Hovig Manouchekian is an Auto Repair and Design Specialist and the Manager of Funk Brothers Auto, a family-owned business operated since 1925. With over 30 years of experience in the automotive industry, Hovig specializes in the process of auto repair and maintenance. He is also very knowledgeable in common automotive issues and needs including engine repair, battery replacement, and windshield accessory and maintenance. Hovig's knowledge and hard work have contributed to Funk Brothers Auto winning Angie's List Super Service Award for five consecutive years.
There are 15 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.
This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources.
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Seeing the “Battery Saver Active” error message in your GM car or truck can be stressful, especially when it shows up while you’re driving. When you see this error, it usually means there’s something wrong with your vehicle’s alternator, but there are a few ways to check out your car’s battery charging system before taking it to a mechanic. Read on to learn a few easy ways to diagnose and fix your Battery Saver Active error so you can get your car back on the road as soon as possible.
Steps
Diagnosing & Fixing a Battery Saver Active Light
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Inspect the battery terminals for signs of corrosion. Corrosion is a natural occurrence as your battery ages, but it can also be a sign the battery isn’t charging properly. Look for a crust of white, blue, or green powdery residue on your battery terminals.[3]
- If you see corrosion, disconnect your car’s battery and clean the corroded battery terminals with baking soda.
- Always wear gloves and safety glasses when cleaning off the terminals. Battery corrosion is caustic and can damage your skin and eyes.[4]
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Check the battery cables and connectors. The bolts that secure your battery cable connectors can loosen over time. A loose connector or bad cable can break the connection and prevent the battery charging system from working correctly. With the car off, check for damage or corrosion on the cables and that the connectors are secured to the battery terminals.
- If loose or disconnected, reconnect the battery and tighten the nut on each connector with a wrench.
- Replace damaged or corroded battery cables yourself or take your vehicle to a mechanic. It usually costs between $326 and $352 for parts and labor for battery cable replacement, but prices may vary depending on your car and location.[5]
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Test the battery with a voltmeter tool. If there’s no corrosion and the battery isn’t damaged, test it yourself with a voltage meter. Testing your battery with a voltmeter is as easy as hooking it up to your battery terminals with the car off, so you can do it anywhere.
- If you don’t have a voltmeter, remove the battery and take it to an automotive store for testing. They will usually test your battery for free.
- A battery in good condition has a charge between 12.4 and 12.7 volts.[6]
- If it’s below 12.4 volts, charge the battery with a car battery charger or ask a friend to jumpstart your car.
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Charge the battery if your car won't start. First, remove any corrosion on the battery terminals. Then, try charging the battery or asking someone to jumpstart your car.[7]
- If you still can’t get the car to start, test the battery with a voltmeter, and replace it if necessary.
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Install a new battery if needed. Replace the battery if it still doesn’t hold a charge. A new car battery costs anywhere from $100 to $200, depending on the warranty, performance, and battery type.[8] If you have the battery replaced by a mechanic, the average cost is between $362 and $373 for parts and labor.[9]
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Check the alternator by testing the battery with the car running. Leave the voltmeter attached to the battery and turn the engine on to test the alternator. The alternator is working if you get a reading above 13.2 volts with the car running. A reading below 13.2 volts means there’s an issue with the alternator or alternator belt.[10]
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Check that your alternator belt is turning your alternator. Inspect the alternator belt while the car is running to check that it’s on the pulley and turning the alternator. You may be able to fix a belt that has simply slipped off the pulley by turning off the car and fitting the belt around the pulley again. Replace the alternator belt if it’s still on the pulley but looks worn or stretched out.[11]
- Remove your alternator and take it to a mechanic for further testing if the belt is turning the alternator and doesn’t show signs of wear. Alternators are relatively easy to remove, even if you have little experience performing car repairs.[12]
- Have your car towed to a mechanic or auto parts store for testing if you’re uncomfortable removing the alternator. They’ll often test it for free.
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Repair or replace a faulty alternator. Alternators fail due to regular wear and tear, fluid leaks, worn bearings, a slipping belt, and incorrect jumper cable usage. They can be repaired, but often, you must replace them to prevent future breakdowns. Replacing an alternator averages between $747 and $842, but the final cost depends on your location and the make and model of your car.[13]
- Repairs generally cost less than replacements, but they can vary drastically depending on the reason for the alternator’s failure.
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Replace the battery current sensor. If the battery and alternator are both functioning, the problem may be with the battery current sensor. The battery sensor is attached to the negative terminal or cable on your car’s battery and measures the current. If it fails, your car’s computer thinks there’s a problem with the system.[14]
- Replacing this sensor usually costs between $85 and $320 for parts and labor at a repair shop.[15]
- In some vehicles, the battery current sensor is attached to the battery cable, meaning mechanics must replace the entire cable when there’s an issue with the sensor.
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Reset the error with an OBD-II tool or take your car to a mechanic. After troubleshooting the most common causes for the Battery Saver Active error, check the on-board diagnostic codes with an OBD-II scan tool if you still haven’t found the problem. The tool shows you the codes for which part of the car malfunctioned.
- Use an OBD-II tool to reset the Battery Saver Active error. However, the message will return if you haven’t resolved the underlying issue.
- Take your car to a mechanic if you are unfamiliar with using an OBD-II tool or understanding the codes. They can also read OBD-II codes to diagnose battery charging system malfunctions. Running a full diagnostic can cost roughly $40 to several hundred dollars, depending on how in-depth it needs to be to find the problem.
Expert Q&A
Video
Tips
References
- ↑ https://www.backyardmechanic.org/battery-saver-active-causes-and-fixes/
- ↑ https://www.motortrend.com/features/how-it-works-december-1993-982-1510-38-1/
- ↑ https://www.uti.edu/blog/automotive/battery-terminal-corrosion
- ↑ https://burncenters.com/community/what-does-battery-acid-do-to-the-skin-battery-acid-burns-and-how-to-treat-them/
- ↑ https://repairpal.com/estimator/battery-cable-replacement-cost
- ↑ https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/how-to-test-a-car-battery-with-a-multimeter
- ↑ https://www.backyardmechanic.org/battery-saver-active-causes-and-fixes/
- ↑ https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/how-much-should-a-car-battery-cost
- ↑ https://repairpal.com/estimator/battery-replacement-cost
- ↑ https://youtu.be/0hK6GQmbj-s?t=118
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Q-iiIcP7ODA?t=68
- ↑ https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/alternator-replacement-cost/
- ↑ https://www.kbb.com/service-repair-guide/alternator-replacement-costs/
- ↑ https://youtu.be/wU6z1do4A6M?t=127
- ↑ https://www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html
- ↑ https://youtu.be/CFsezsGXGHE?t=38