A Complete Guide to Different Types of Grass & How to Find Yours

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Tips from expert landscapers on perfecting your lawn
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Whether you’re filling in a patchy area in your lawn or trying to determine how to best care for it, figuring out what type of grass you have can seem a little tricky. But with a little careful examination, you can distinguish your grass from other popular species. We’re here to show you exactly what to look for when you’re identifying types of grass and how to care for the most popular grass types. We also talked to expert landscapers for tips on how to get the best lawn.

What kind of grass do I have?

First, find your growing zone—some grasses will only grow in warm or cool climates. Then, observe features like the blade shape, color, the growing pattern. Compare these to a chart of grass types. If you’re still unsure, look at how the buds are former (vernation) and any outgrowths (auricle) around the blade.

Section 1 of 4:

Identifying and Caring for the Most Common Types of Grass

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  1. 14864092 1.jpeg
    1
    Annual Ryegrass Annual ryegrass is a cool-weather grass that’s often used to add color to lawns in winter. It grows quickly and can thrive even in slightly damp soils, but it typically won’t regrow the next year.[1]
    • Blade: Narrow with a pointed tip and smooth edges
    • Color: Bright green
    • Growth: Fast-growing and seasonal with a clumping growth pattern
    • Water: Water once or twice a week once the ryegrass is established[2]
    • Maintenance: Because it grows mostly in winter, not much maintenance will need to be done, although you may need to mow it frequently in the spring, as it will start to grow quickly in milder temperatures.
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 4-9.
  2. Step 2 Bahiagrass
    Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass that commonly grows in hot, humid climates where other grasses struggle to thrive. In fact, Bahia grows so rapidly that it can be difficult to control. Because Bahia thrives in multiple soil types and is extremely drought-tolerant, it’s a good ground cover for areas where other grasses don’t thrive.[3]
    • Blade: Wide with hairy edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Light green
    • Growth: Fast-growing, spreads via underground rhizomes
    • Water: Water during droughts to avoid brown patches
    • Maintenance: Trim it frequently in spring, summer, and fall to control rapid growth
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 7-11.
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  3. Step 3 Bermuda
    Bermuda grass is an aggressive grower that can quickly overtake a yard. That said, it’s drought-resistant and hardy, making it a favorite in southern states with hot summers. It’s also especially well-suited to high-traffic areas and will quickly recover from stress or damage.
    • Blade: Narrow with rough edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Light to dark green
    • Growth: Spreads aggressively with both stolons and rhizomes
    • Water: Water during droughts to avoid brown patches, but otherwise not much irrigation is needed.
    • Maintenance: If you have Bermuda grass in your lawn, keep it mowed short—try to avoid letting it get longer than about 2.5 in (6.4 cm). Otherwise, it can be difficult to control.
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 7-10.
  4. Step 4 Buffalo
    Buffalo is a fine-textured, hardy grass that’s great for low-maintenance lawns. It grows best in full sun, but it may look patchy or sparse in shaded or heavily traveled areas.[4]
    • Blade: Narrow with hairy edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Gray-green or blue-green
    • Growth: Moderate growth speed, spreads by above-ground stolons
    • Water: You almost never need to water buffalo grass. In fact, buffalo grass can grow in areas that get less than 1 in (2.5 cm) of rain over a whole summer.[5]
    • Maintenance: If you want a low-maintenance lawn, mow buffalo grass every 3–4 weeks, keeping it at a length of about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm). For a more manicured look, mow once a week to maintain a length of about 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm).[6]
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA zones 3-10.
  5. Step 5 Centipede
    Centipede grass is a slow-growing, coarse, warm-season grass. It doesn’t require much fertilizing and it’s pretty low-maintenance. Centipede grass grows best in full sun.[7] If you have shady areas in your yard, you may want to mix in a grass like zoysia or St. Augustine.
    • Blade: Medium-width and hairy near the base with a pointed or boat-shaped tip
    • Color: Light green
    • Growth: Slow grower, spreads through above-ground stolons
    • Water: Water centipede grass during periods of drought to avoid brown patches.[8]
    • Maintenance: Try to keep it cut down to about 2.5 in (6.4 cm)—but since it grows so slowly, you’ll probably only need to cut it a couple of times during the growing season.
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 7a to 10a.
  6. Step 6 Creeping bentgrass
    Bentgrass is a cool-season grass that performs best in sunny areas with moist soil. It’s frequently used on golf courses, but because it’s fairly high-maintenance, it’s somewhat difficult to care for in home lawns.[9]
    • Blade: Narrow and flat
    • Color: Bright green but loses color early in the fall and is slow to regain it in the spring
    • Growth: Fast-growing, spreads by stolons to form above-ground mats
    • Water: Should be watered frequently
    • Maintenance: Must be mowed and dethatched regularly to keep it looking green and to avoid matting. Also requires frequent fertilizing.
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 4a to 9b.
  7. Step 7 Fine Fescue
    Fine fescue is a cool-season grass that does especially well in shady areas.[10] It’s also quick to recover from damage or stress, and it doesn’t require much fertilizing or irrigation.[11] However, it doesn’t grow well in areas that have warm or humid summers. Many people use fine fescue to fill in shady areas, and tall fescue for sunnier areas of their lawn.
    • Blade: Narrow with smooth edges and a pointed or boat-shaped tip
    • Color: Medium to dark green
    • Growth: Fast-growing with a clumping growth pattern
    • Water: Water during droughts to avoid browning
    • Maintenance: Because it’s fast-growing, you’ll probably need to mow fine fescue once a week to prevent clumping overgrowth.
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 3-8.
  8. Step 8 Kentucky Bluegrass
    Kentucky bluegrass is a highly prized grass for lawns because it’s soft and creates a smooth turf when it’s mowed. Because it’s a little difficult to maintain, Kentucky bluegrass is often blended with another grass—a common seed mix is 1 part bluegrass to 9 parts tall fescue.[12]
    • Blade: Narrow with smooth edges and a boat-shaped tip
    • Color: Dark green
    • Growth: Slow grower, spreads by underground rhizomes
    • Water: Water your lawn frequently during the hot summer months to keep it looking lush and green.[13]
    • Maintenance: Mow this slow-growing grass as needed to maintain a manicured lawn.
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 3-7.
  9. Step 9 Perennial Ryegrass
    Like annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass is a cool-season grass that’s frequently used for overseeding in winter. But perennial ryegrass may survive from one year to the next, especially in areas with colder winters—and over the next year, it can sometimes start to grow in difficult-to-control clumps.[14]
    • Blade: Medium-width with rough edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Bright green
    • Growth: Faster grower with a clumping growth pattern
    • Water: Water once a week once grass is established.[15]
    • Maintenance: Mow this fast-growing crop as needed. If it survives to a second season, more frequent mowing may be required to prevent clumping.
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 5-7.
  10. Staugustinegrass.jpeg
    10
    St. Augustine St. Augustine is a warm-season, blue-green grass that’s commonly found across the southern U.S. It’s a fairly coarse grass, but it’s a good option in hot, humid climates where other grasses struggle—but it doesn’t do well in high-traffic areas.[16]
    • Blade: Wide with smooth edges and a boat-shaped tip
    • Color: Normally medium to dark green, but landscaper Rob Litman advises that “St. Augustine grass will yellow in winter,” especially in cooler climates.[17]
    • Growth: Moderately fast growth, spreads via above-ground stolons
    • Water: Water during droughts to keep it looking green
    • Maintenance: Mow as needed to control overgrowth
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 8-10.
  11. Step 11 Tall Fescue
    Compared to other cool-season grasses, tall fescue is one of the best species for tolerating heat and drought. It can also grow in both sunny and partially-shaded areas, making it a versatile choice for lawns.[18] Fine fescue is often planted in areas that are too shady for tall fescue.
    • Blade: Narrow with rough edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Medium to dark green
    • Growth: Moderately fast growth, clumping growth pattern but may have some rhizomes
    • Water: Tall fescue rarely requires irrigation
    • Maintenance: Tall fescue can become clumpy over time, so you may need to re-seed your lawn each year to keep your grass looking lush, green, and even.[19]
    • Cool season or warm season? Cool season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 3-8.
  12. Step 12 Zoysia
    Zoysia is a dense, warm-season grass that’s a popular choice for high-traffic areas. It’s hardy, with high tolerance for both heat and drought, and it’s more weed-resistant than some grasses.[20]
    • Blade: Narrow with hairy edges and a pointed tip
    • Color: Light to medium green—but like St. Augustine, Litman says that “zoysia grass will turn yellow in the winter.”[21]
    • Growth: Slow grower, spreads via both stolons and rhizomes
    • Water: Water occasionally to keep lawn looking green
    • Maintenance: Slow-growing, so only occasional mowing is required. Occasional fertilizing will keep zoysia looking its best.
    • Cool season or warm season? Warm season.
    • Growing zone: USDA Zones 6a-11a.
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Section 2 of 4:

How to Know What Type of Grass You Have

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  1. Step 1 Find your growing zone.
    When you’re trying to identify the type of grass you have, first look at a grass zone map and find your location. In the U.S., most northern states will only grow cool-season grasses and most southern states will only grow warm-season grasses. If you live in a transition zone, it means you may have warm-season grasses, cool-season grasses, or even a mix of both.[22]
    • Cool-season grasses: These grasses grow best in the spring and fall and include tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, creeping bentgrass, and annual ryegrass.
    • Warm-season grasses: These grasses grow best in the hot summer months and include Zoysia, Bahia, centipede, St. Augustine, Bermuda, and buffalo.
  2. Step 2 Look at the shape of the blade tip.
    Pluck a blade of grass that hasn’t been cut by the mower, then examine the very end. On some grasses, the tip will be pointed, some will be rounded, and some will have a boat-like shape.
    • Pointed: Annual ryegrass, Bahia, Bermuda, buffalo, creeping bentgrass, fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, zoysia
    • Pointed or boat-shaped: Centipede
    • Boat-shaped: Kentucky bluegrass, St. Augustine
  3. Step 3 Examine the growth pattern of new leaves (vernation).
    You’ll need to get up close and personal with your grass to see this—it may even help to use a magnifying glass. Carefully examine a new grass leaf that hasn’t opened yet. Depending on the type of grass you have, new leaves will either be rolled in a circular pattern or folded in more of a flat pattern.[23] This is known as the grass’s vernation type.
    • Rolled vernation: Annual ryegrass, creeping bentgrass, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, buffalo, zoysia[24]
    • Folded vernation: Perennial ryegrass, Bermuda, St. Augustine, centipede, fine fescue
    • Either rolled or folded: Bahia
  4. Step 4 Examine the width and texture of the blade.
    Look at the edges of the leaf—they might be rough, smooth with small hairs, hairy only near the base, or smooth all the way down. Also, pay attention to how wide or narrow the blade is.[25]
    • Smooth edges and narrow blade: Annual ryegrass, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass
    • Rough edges and narrow blade: Bermuda, tall fescue
    • Hairy edges and narrow blade: Buffalo, zoysia
    • Rough edges and medium blade: Creeping bentgrass, perennial ryegrass
    • Hairy at base and medium blade: Centipede
    • Smooth edges and wide blade: St. Augustine
    • Hairy edges and wide blade: Bahia
  5. Step 5 Look at how the blades of grass are attached (auricle).
    At the base of the grass leaf where it meets the stem—known as the leaf collar—you may see a small overgrowth called an auricle.[26] Most common turfgrasses don’t have an auricle, so if you see one, it can be a good clue as to the type of grass you have.[27]
    • Overlapping auricle: Annual ryegrass
    • Short auricle: Tall fescue
    • Small or absent auricle: Perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, buffalo, Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia, St. Augustine, centipede, fine fescue, creeping bentgrass
  6. Step 6 Find how the grass blade wraps around the stem (sheath).
    The section of the grass that wraps around the stem is known as the sheath. In grasses with a closed sheath, the sheath almost looks like the stem itself. If the sheath is overlapping, it folds over itself along the stem. If the sheath is open, there’s a gap running down the sheath along the stem. And if the sheath is flattened, it folds around the stem—almost like an envelope.
    • Overlapping: Annual ryegrass, centipede, zoysia
    • Open: Bahia, Bermuda, buffalo, creeping bentgrass, fine fescue, St. Augustine, tall fescue
    • Open or closed: Kentucky bluegrass
    • Flattened: Perennial ryegrass
  7. Step 7 Check for growth coming out of the sheath (ligule).
    Many grasses have a ligule that grows out of the sheath—in some grasses, this is a thin, membrane-like growth, and in others, it looks like small hairs. The ligule can be very short or a little longer, and it can be rounded, tapered, or scalloped.[28]
    • Small membranous ligule: Annual ryegrass, creeping bentgrass, fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass[29]
    • Longer membranous ligule: Bahia
    • Hairy ligule: Buffalo, Bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine
    • Ligule can be short or long: Tall fescue
    • Membranous with hairs: Centipede
  8. Step 8 Examine the growth habit of the grass.
    Some grasses grow in clumps or bunches. These grasses usually don’t spread much. Other grasses grow by above-ground runners called stolons—you’ll often see these runners creeping across the edges of driveways or patios. Some grasses spread through underground runners known as rhizomes, which you’ll see if you try to pull up a section of grass. A few grasses have both runners and stolons.
    • Clumping or bunching: Annual ryegrass, fine fescue, perennial ryegrass
    • Clumping with some rhizomes: Tall fescue
    • Stolons: Buffalo, centipede, creeping bentgrass, St. Augustine
    • Rhizomes: Bahia, Kentucky bluegrass
    • Stolons and rhizomes: Bermuda, zoysia
    • Identification tip: Some cool-season grasses have rhizomes, but only warm-season grasses have stolons.[30]
  9. Step 9 Check the shape of the seed head if the grass is overgrown.
    If you skip mowing for a while and your grass goes to seed, you may notice what looks like weeds popping up across your lawn—but these are often actually grass seeds. The shape of the seed head can be a clue to the type of grass you have:
    • Spiked seed head: Annual ryegrass, Bermuda, buffalo, centipede, perennial ryegrass, St. Augustine, zoysia
    • Panicle (flower cluster): Creeping bentgrass, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue
    • Y-shaped seed head: Bahia
  10. Step 10 Look at the color of the grass.
    Because color can be subjective depending on the time of year and the health of the grass, this may not be as helpful as identifying the shape of the grass. But it may still help you get an idea of the type of grass you have.
    • Bright green: Annual ryegrass, creeping bentgrass, perennial ryegrass
    • Light green: Bahia, centipede
    • Light to medium green: Zoysia
    • Light to dark green: Bermuda
    • Medium to dark green: Fine fescue, St. Augustine, tall fescue
    • Dark green: Kentucky bluegrass
    • Gray-green or blue-green: Buffalo
    • If you’re still not sure what type of grass you have, take a sample of your grass to your local county extension office—including the roots and the seed head, if available.
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Section 3 of 4:

What type of grass is best for your yard?

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  1. Choose a grass type based on your climate, sun, moisture, and traffic. Always look at your climate first—warm-season grass will die quickly in an area with cold winters and cool-season grass won’t survive hot summers. Also, look at how much sun your lawn gets: if some areas get full sun and some are shady, you may need to combine different types of grasses to get full coverage.
    • Moisture: If you live in an area with dense, poorly-drained soil, choose a grass like Bahia or tall fescue that can tolerate wet conditions.
    • Traffic: In areas with a lot of foot traffic, consider a grass like Bermuda, zoysia, or perennial ryegrass.
Section 4 of 4:

FAQs

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  1. 1
    When should you fertilize grass? Landscaper Benjamin Hansen says, “You can’t fertilize grass when it’s hot. Use top granular fertilizer twice a year—in the fall when temps cool down and then again in the spring.”[31]
  2. 2
    How do you keep your grass green in winter? Litman recommends spreading winter rye to keep your grass green in winter. “Winter rye is an annual that will grow and disappear within six months, so it’s a great choice to fill in the gaps and get greenery in winter.”[32]
  3. 3
    How do you keep grass from growing where you don’t want it? According to home improvement specialist Keith Souza, to control grass and weeds, “lay down a separation border. Plastic and concrete are both good options. You can also put down a landscape mat so weeds and grass don’t come out.”[33]
  4. 4
    Can you leave grass clippings on your lawn? Landscaper Grant Wallace says, “Yes, it’s more than fine to leave lawn clippings in your yard as long as you’re using a sharp blade. If you use a dull blade, you’ll get clumps, and the sun won’t be able to get through so it will kill that part of your yard. You can also use a leaf blower to spread out the clippings so you don’t get those clumps.”[34]
  5. 5
    Can you throw grass seed on an existing lawn? It’s best to prepare the lawn before you put down grass seeds. Cut your grass very short—no more than 2 in (5.1 cm). If you’re seeding a small area, gently loosen the top 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) of soil with a hand rake, or use a power rake or vertical mower for larger areas. Rake up any grass clippings, then spread the grass seed.[35]
  6. 6
    What is the most common lawn grass species? The most common grass type depends on where you live. If you live in a warm-season area, common grasses include Bahia, Bermuda, St. Augustine, and centipede. If you live in cool-season area, common grasses include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass.[36]
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References

  1. ↑ https://grazer.ca.uky.edu/managing-rye-and-annual-ryegrass
  2. ↑ https://cales.arizona.edu/azmet/phx/lawnfaqs.htm
  3. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/bahiagrass/
  4. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/buffalograss/
  5. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  6. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6730
  7. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/centipedegrass/
  8. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/centipedegrass-lawn-maintenance-calendar
  9. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/TURFSPECIES/creepbent.html
  1. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/fine-fescue/
  2. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  3. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  4. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  5. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/perennial-ryegrass/
  6. ↑ https://cales.arizona.edu/azmet/phx/lawnfaqs.htm
  7. ↑ https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH010
  8. ↑ Rob Litman. Licensed Landscaper & General Contractor. Expert Interview
  9. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  10. ↑ https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/grasses/tall-fescue/
  11. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  12. ↑ Rob Litman. Licensed Landscaper & General Contractor. Expert Interview
  13. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  14. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/TURFSPECIES/keystart.html
  15. ↑ https://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/sites/buckeyeturf/files/imce/Gardner_Weedy%20Grass%20ID.pdf
  16. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/ID/leaftips.html
  17. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/ID/4auricles.html
  18. ↑ https://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/sites/buckeyeturf/files/imce/Gardner_Weedy%20Grass%20ID.pdf
  19. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/ID/ligules.html
  20. ↑ https://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/sites/buckeyeturf/files/imce/Gardner_Weedy%20Grass%20ID.pdf
  21. ↑ https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10
  22. ↑ Benjamin Hansen. Licensed Landscape Contractor. Expert Interview
  23. ↑ Rob Litman. Licensed Landscaper & General Contractor. Expert Interview
  24. ↑ Keith Souza. Home Improvement Specialist. Expert Interview
  25. ↑ Grant Wallace. Landscaper. Expert Interview
  26. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding
  27. ↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/a32130743/types-of-grass/

About This Article

Rob Litman
Co-authored by:
Rob Litman
Licensed Landscaper & General Contractor
This article was co-authored by Rob Litman and by wikiHow staff writer, Amy Bobinger, BA. Rob Litman is a Landscaper, General Contractor, and the CEO of Vitoli Inc., a landscaping, hardscaping, ecoscaping, and swimming pool design company in Los Angeles, California. With over 20 years of experience in construction, Rob specializes in energy-efficient and drought-tolerant landscaping. He holds General Building Contractor (Class B) and Registered Pool/Spa Contractor Licenses. In 2007, Rob won House of the Year in Gardena, California. This article has been viewed 5,768 times.
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