How to Know If a Betta Fish Is Sick or Dying: Signs & Symptoms

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Aquarium experts explain betta fish diseases & symptoms

Co-authored by Craig Morton and Sophie Burkholder, BA

Last Updated: September 30, 2025 Fact Checked

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• Symptoms of a Sick Betta Fish
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• Common Diseases & Illnesses
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• Keeping Your Betta Healthy
|
• Video
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• Expert Q&A
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• Tips
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• Warnings

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While betta fish are pretty easy to care for, they can sometimes grow unhealthy or catch diseases, causing them to get sick. To help you tell if your fish is sick or not, we asked several aquarium experts to explain the signs of an unhealthy or ill betta. These experts also explained how to diagnose and treat common diseases affecting betta fish, as well as how to keep your fish happy and healthy overall. Read on to learn more!

How can you tell if you have a sick betta fish?

Fish and aquarium specialist Craig Morton says that sick betta fish often have cloudy eyes, a white film on their skin, and/or clamped fins. They might also show faded coloring, lethargy, and a refusal to eat. Signs of infection or disease often include torn fins, white spots, bulging eyes, and/or a swollen stomach.

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Section 1 of 3:

Symptoms of a Sick, Unhealthy, or Dying Betta Fish

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1. 
   1
   Faded or dull coloring When a betta gets sick, their coloring may look faded, dull, or pale. They may even lose their color altogether.

   • Healthy betta fish have bright and vibrant coloring.
2. 
   2
   Damaged or clamped fins According to Morton, an unhealthy betta may develop holes or rips in their fins. He also says that their fins might appear clamped or tethered to their body—in other words, they aren't fanned out properly.

   • Healthy betta fish have long, damage-free fins. They gracefully fan out from their body and flow as they swim.

   Meet the wikiHow Experts

   Brian Blake is a fish and aquarium expert with over 20 years of experience in freshwater planted aquariums, saltwater reef aquariums, aquarium installation, care, and maintenance.

   Craig Morton is an aquarium specialist who specializes in creating custom aquarium designs along with aquarium installation, service, and maintenance.

   Wes Corbyn is an aquarium expert with over 24 years of experience as a specialist in preventative maintenance and natural methods to keep aquarium ecosystems stable and healthy.

   Cyriac St.Vil is an aquarium expert who has created aquariums in classrooms, lobbies, and dining halls for viewing and educational purposes.

   Marshall Stephens is an aquarium expert who focuses on captive-bred animals in tropical and marine aquariums.

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3. 
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   Lethargy, hiding behaviors, and low activity level If your betta is sick, their activity level will likely decrease; they won't be their normal, active self. Their movements may slow down, and you might even catch them lying motionless on the bottom of the tank. Your fish might also hide out at the bottom of the tank more often than normal, or avoid interaction and retreat when you approach.

   • Healthy betta fish are very active and curious about what you’re doing.
   • Lethargy can be caused by other things besides sickness, like a temperature that is too low or too high. So, make sure your providing your fish with the conditions and care they need—we discuss how best to keep your betta fish happy in the sections below!x
4. 
   4
   Decreased appetite With some sicknesses, your betta fish may appear uninterested in food for a day or more. They might even stop eating altogether.

   • Healthy betta fish are usually very eager to eat and don’t miss a mealtime.
5. 
   5
   Difficulty swimming If your betta fish is sick or unhealthy, they may swim abnormally. For instance, they might swim upside down, swim on their side, have trouble staying upright, or even sink to the bottom of the tank.

   • Healthy betta fish are active, graceful swimmers that easily stay upright and glide through the water.
6. 
   6
   Breathing problems It may sound funny to check a fish for breathing problems. However, if your betta is constantly at the top of the tank trying to get more air or even gasping for breath, that is likely a sign of a problem.

   • Healthy betta fish naturally go to the top of the tank to take a breather at times, but doing it frequently is abnormal. According to aquarium expert Wes Corbyn, it’s normal for bettas to swim to the surface because they “have a labyrinth organ” that “allows them to breathe surface air.”
7. 
   7
   White spots Morton says that sick betta fish sometimes develop small, white spots on their body, especially around the head and mouth, as well as a white film over their skin. This symptom can be a sign of a certain type of parasite, called Ich.

   • Healthy betta fish typically have clean, clear skin that’s free from spots or film.
8. 
   8
   Rubbing or scratching behaviors Aquarium expert Cyriac St.Vil says that if your betta tries to rub against the side of the tank or “purposely runs into objects in the tank,” they “may be showing signs of illness.” Similarly, if your betta is trying to scratch on plants or objects in the tank, they might also be unhealthy.

   • Healthy betta fish typically swim freely without rubbing or scratching themselves on objects in the tank.
9. 
   9
   Cloudy, bulging eyes and other physical symptoms According to Morton, cloudy eyes can be a sign of illness, as healthy bettas have clear, bright eyes. Bulging eyes can also be a sign of sickness. Watch to see if your betta's eyes are protruding from its head. Other physical symptoms include:

   • Raised scales: Raised or pinecone-looking scales can be a symptom of sickness in bettas, as their scales are smooth and flat when they’re healthy.
   • Swelling: A sick or unhealthy betta may have a swollen belly or other bulging spots on their body. Healthy bettas have smooth, bump-free skin.
   • Gill problems: If your betta is unable to close their gills, they may be swollen, which is another sign of sickness. A healthy fish can easily open and close their gills.
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Section 2 of 3:

Common Betta Fish Diseases & Illnesses

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1. 
   1
   Fin or Tail Rot (Fungal Infection) While a fungal infection is different from fin/tail rot, they have similar symptoms and treatments. According to aquarium specialist Marshall Stephens, the most common symptom of a fungal infection or fin/tail rot is “deteriorated fins” or tails that have a shredded or torn appearance. He says there might also be “red streaks in the fins” and “white cotton-like growths…around the mouth and fins.” Also, look for a darker color near the end of the tail to identify fin or tail rot.

   • Note: Some longer-tailed varieties, like halfmoon bettas, may bite their fins because they are too heavy. In this case, look for other symptoms of sickness aside from torn fins.
   • Treatment Steps:
     • Remove your fish and place it in a suitable holding container.
     • Use a hose to siphon the dirty water out of your tank.
     • Remove any decorations or gravel, then soak them in “1 part water and 3 parts vinegar” for 1 hour before thoroughly rinsing them, says St.Vil.
     • If you have rocks, back them at 450 °F (232 °C) for 1 hour. Let them cool before adding them back to the tank.
     • Clean out the tank with bleach and water—St.Vil recommends a solution of “1 part bleach and 5 parts water.” Then, rinse out the tank several times.
     • Fill the tank with fresh water and add a water conditioner. Allow your fish to acclimate to the water before directly putting them back in the tank.
     • For fin/tail rot, add some medication to the water (following package instructions. Morton suggests adding API BettaFix medication to the water.
     • For a fungal infection, add a fungus eliminator to the water to help keep the fungus out of the water.
     • Change the water at least once every 3 days, adding the medication back in every time. Only stop when your betta’s fins or tails grow back or their symptoms disappear (this can take up to a month).
   EXPERT TIP

   

   Brian Blake

   Aquarium Expert

   Brian Blake is an Aquarium Expert and the Owner of Boodleshire Aquatics based in the Kansas City Metro Area. With over 20 years of experience, Brian is an expert in freshwater planted aquariums, saltwater reef aquariums, and aquarium installation, care, and maintenance. Brian holds a Bachelor's degree in Ichthyology and Aquatic Environmental Science from Emporia State University.

   

   Brian Blake
   Aquarium Expert

   Look for multiple symptoms to properly diagnose a betta. A single symptom can be the result of several illnesses. For instance, white patches can be a sign of a fungal, bacterial, or parasitic infection. Noticing other bacterial infection symptoms, like cloudy eyes, might mean the patches aren’t fungal.
2. 
   2
   Velvet Velvet is a parasitic infection that can generally be prevented by adding aquarium salt and water conditioner to your tank during water changes (not top-ups). If you think one of your bettas may have velvet, however, shine a flashlight directly on your fish and look for a shimmer of gold or rust on its scales. Your fish might exhibit other symptoms, such as lethargy, loss of appetite, clamped fins, and rubbing or scratching themselves against walls or items in the aquarium.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • Place your fish in a separate tank (if there are other fish in the aquarium).
     • Get a bottle of BettaFix, Seachem Cupramine, Methylene Blue, or Maracide, and follow the package directions to add the correct amount to your fish’s water.
     • Check the medication’s packaging to see how often you should add it to the tank. Continue adding medicine until your fish no longer has any symptoms of velvet.
     • If your betta lives with other fish, treat the entire tank for velvet. Velvet is a very contagious disease, so it could have spread to your other fish.
3. 
   3
   Ich Ich is a parasite that thrives in dirty water and produces small, white spots on your fish’s body, says St.Vil. Ich is preventable, says St.Vil, by treating the water with “regular water changes and regular filter media changes.” But if you suspect that one of your bettas has ich, look for white spots all over the body that look like salt. Also check for clamped fins, lethargy, and a loss of appetite.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • If you have a large tank that’s over 5 gallons (19 L), raise the temperature to 85°F (29°C) to kill the parasite.
       • Do not use this temperature in a small tank. This can kill your fish.
     • Siphon out the dirty water, disinfect the tank and decorations, and add in fresh, conditioned water with aquarium salt in it.
     • If using a large tank, heat the water to 85°F (29°C) before putting the fish back in the tank.
     • Add an ich medication, like Tetra Ick Guard, API Super Ick Cure, or Kordon Ich Attack, to the water. Follow package instructions for proper dosage and usage.
4. 
   4
   Popeye Aquarium expert Brian Blake says that “popeye is a symptom of a bacterial infection.” He explains that, “when a fish becomes infected with bacteria in the eye,” oftentimes “the buildup of gas from the bacteria…results in the eye popping out.” So, check whether either of your fish’s eyes is bulging or protruding from their head. Blake says that sometimes fish develop popeye due to a weakened immune system, which might be “because of dirty tank water or improper water conditions,” like too cool or hot water.

   • Note: In rare cases, popeye can be a symptom of other diseases, such as tuberculosis. Unfortunately, there is no cure for betta fish tuberculosis.
   • Treatment Steps:
     • Siphon out the dirty water and sanitize the tank, decorations, and gravel.
     • Add conditioner to some fresh water and pour it into the clean tank.
     • Add ampicillin into the water to help treat popeye that’s caused by bacterial infections. Follow the directions on the bottle to add the medication to the water every time you change it.
     • Change out the water every 3 days until you notice your fish’s symptoms improving.
     • Continue this regimen for 1 week after you stop seeing signs of the problem.
5. 
   5
   Dropsy Dropsy is typically caused by an infection in your fish’s abdominal organs, which causes their belly to swell and bulge. This disease can also cause your fish’s scales to stick out, giving them the appearance of a pinecone.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • Place your fish in a separate tank if they’re in a shared aquarium.
     • Then, Morton recommends adding 2.5 teaspoons (12.5 g) of Epsom salt for every ten gallons (37.8 L) of water in the tank to help cure dropsy.
     • Change the water every few days and add more salt until your fish starts to recover.
     • Morton also recommends feeding your fish antibacterial fish food to help cure dropsy. Replace their regular food with food containing antibiotics to help kill off the bacterial or parasitic infection causing dropsy.
6. 
   6
   Swim Bladder Disease Swim bladder disease affects your betta fish’s swim bladder organ, which helps them float and swim properly. So, if they have this disease, you might notice them having trouble swimming upright, floating upside down, or sinking to the bottom of the tank. Swim bladder is often caused by overfeeding or a bacterial infection.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • If your fish is eating normally (i.e., not refusing to eat or acting disinterested in food), skip feeding them for one day.
     • If your betta fish is in a communal tank, place them in a separate tank for treatment.
     • Siphon out the dirty water, clean their tank and decorations, and add in fresh, conditioned water.
     • Morton also recommends adding 2 teaspoons (12 g) of non-iodized salt and 2 teaspoons (12 g) of Epsom salt per gallon (3.8 L) to the aquarium.
7. 7
   Hole in the Head Hole in the head disease results in holes and pits around your fish’s head and eyes. It can also cause your fish’s flesh to erode away. You might also notice your fish acting lethargic. Hole in the head can be caused by many things, like nutritional deficiencies, but it's often due to a bacterial infection.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • Siphon out the dirty water and replace it with fresh, conditioned water.
     • Treat the water with a general medication that kills off bacteria and parasites, like API General Cure.
     • Feed your fish with high-quality betta fish pellets.

   Some "symptoms" aren't actually symptoms of a disease. For instance, lethargy can be caused by low temperature (no heater) and rips/tears in the fins can be from sharp objects. Don't just put in medication because one symptom of a disease is present! Look for other clues as well.
8. 8
   Columnaris Columnaris is a bacterial infection that’s pretty common in betta fish, but it’s often mistaken for a fungal infection. This infection typically creates white, fluffy, cotton-like patches on a fish’s skin, mouth, or gills. You may also see fraying on the fins, open sores on the body, difficulty breathing, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Columnaris is often caused by stress, poor water quality, or overcrowding in a tank, and it can spread quickly among a community of fish.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • Put your betta in a separate tank to prevent the infection from spreading to other fish.
     • Use a siphon to empty out the dirty water, then clean and sanitize the tank and anything inside it (i.e., decorations and rocks).
     • Add in fresh water and mix in a medication like Kanaplex or Furan-2 (follow the instructions on your medication package).
     • Lower the tank’s temperature to about 75°F (24°C) to slow down bacterial growth.
     • Change the water at least once every three days and keep the tank clean.
     • While your fish still has symptoms, give it daily salt baths by dissolving one teaspoon of aquarium salt in 1 gallon (3.8 L) water and letting your betta soak in it for 10-15 minutes per day.
9. 9
   Gill flukes Gill flukes are small, parasitic flatworms that attach themselves to a betta fish’s gills. They usually enter the tank through contaminated water, new fish, or live plants. Look for symptoms like red or inflamed gills that produce mucus, lethargic behavior, loss of appetite, scratching or rubbing against objects in the tank, or gasping for air near the surface or filter.

   • Treatment Steps:
     • Isolate your betta fish by moving it to a new tank.
     • Add an air stone or reduce the water level in the new tank to improve your betta’s breathing.
     • Clean and sanitize the main tank (including decorations) and refill it with fresh water.
     • Add an anti-parasitic medication (like Praziquantel) into both tanks, following the package instructions for dosage and usage.
     • Give your betta a daily salt bath in a separate container—dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt into 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water, then let your betta soak in it for 10-15 minutes.
10. 10
    Anchor worms Similar to gill flukes, anchor worms are tiny parasites that burrow under the skin of a fish, which causes a lot of discomfort for your betta. Look closely for anchor worms on your fish; they look like long threads, and they’re usually hanging off the fins, tail, or body. You might also see inflamed spots or open sores on your fish’s body, or you might notice your betta rubbing against objects in the tank, refusing to eat, or displaying sluggish behavior.

    • Treatment Steps:
      • If you can see the anchor worms, hold your betta gently and carefully remove the worms with tweezers. Clean the areas on your fish with an antiseptic to prevent infections.
      • Move your betta to a separate tank without any other fish in it.
      • Give your betta a daily salt bath in a separate container—dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt into 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water, then let your betta soak in it for 15 minutes.
      • Treat the water in both tanks with an anti-parasitic medication like API General Cure.
11. 11
    Hemorrhagic Septicemia Hemorrhagic septicemia is a bacterial infection that causes internal bleeding in betta fish. You’ll generally notice red streaks or spots on a fish’s body and fins, and you may also notice swelling or bloating, trouble breathing, clamped fins, and swimming toward the surface. Hemorrhagic septicemia is very serious and spreads very quickly, so it’s important to consult with a vet or start a treatment plan immediately.

    • Treatment Steps:
      • Move your betta to a quarantine tank to stop the disease from spreading.
      • Treat your betta with a broad-spectrum antibiotic like Kanamycin or Maracyn-Two.
      • Focus on improving your water conditions and keeping a clean tank. Change the water once every 3 days (at least), and use a water conditioner every time.
      • Avoid overcrowding in your tank and keep the water temperature around 78-80°F (25-27°C).
12. 12
    Constipation If your betta fish suddenly swells up out of nowhere, they may be constipated. However, constipation can look similar to swim bladder disease. So, if treating your betta for constipation doesn’t help, follow the methods to cure them of swim bladder disease. Constipation is not as dire as some of the other betta fish diseases we’ve listed, but it’s still important to treat this problem as quickly as possible!

    • Stop feeding your fish for one whole day.
    • After fasting, feed your fish brine shrimp, bloodworms, or another live food.
    • You can also cut up 2-3 peas into tiny pieces and feed those to your fish.
    • Moving forward, make sure you aren’t overfeeding your betta (and feed them less than you were before), but still feed them twice a day.
    • According to Stephens, the general rule on how much food to give tropical fish, like bettas, is “not more than they can eat in about 30 seconds.”
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Section 3 of 3:

Keeping Your Betta Fish Healthy

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1. 1
   Change your betta’s water once per week. To keep your betta fish happy and healthy, Morton says to “change 20-25% of the water every week.” This helps ensure that the water stays clean and free from bacteria, parasites, and fungi that cause diseases.
2. 2
   Keep the water warm, around 76-82°F (24-28°C). Bettas are tropical, warm-water fish that thrive in temperatures between 76-82°F (24-28°C). To ensure your betta fish stays warm, Morton recommends adding an aquarium heater to your tank to keep the water temperature consistent.

   • Exposure to cooler temperatures can stress your betta fish out and weaken their immune system, making them more vulnerable to diseases.
3. 3
   Add a filter to your tank if you don’t have one. Because betta fish have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe air, they can technically live in a tank without a filter. However, Corbyn says betta fish tend to “live healthier, longer lives in a tank with a filter.” Simply add a small filter with a gentle flow to keep the tank nicely oxygenated.
4. 4
   Give your betta fish high-quality food. Ensure your betta fish gets the nutrients they need by feeding them high-quality betta fish pellets. For instance, Morton suggests brands like Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, Tetra BettaMin, and API Betta Food.

   • Feed your betta fish twice per day, once in the morning and once in the evening.
   • Make sure you don’t overfeed your fish, as this can cause them to get ill. Morton says to remember that “the size of the fish’s eye is the size of the stomach.”
5. 5
   Decorate your fish’s tank and keep it in a calm location. Constant stress can also harm your betta fish, so ensure their tank is set up to their liking. Corbyn recommends adding “a few live plants with a small light” to the tank to create a natural environment and give your fish a place to hide and rest. If your fish seems stressed, St.Vil suggests removing distractions, like mirrors, from around the tank and ensuring the space is free from light or noise disruptions.
6. 6
   Consult with a veterinarian if your fish are sick and not recovering. Start by following basic treatment steps like improving water quality, feeding your fish well, and maintaining the proper temperature for your tank. However, if your fish aren’t improving or you’re worried they might have a serious disease that you don’t know how to treat, you should absolutely consult with a veterinarian. Do an online search for vets in your area that specialize in fish care, as not all vets treat fish. Then, contact the veterinarian’s office and ask for guidance on diagnosis and treatments. Follow the doctor’s guidance precisely and, hopefully, your betta’s health will improve!
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Expert Q&A

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• Question

  How often should I change the water in the tank?

  

  Craig Morton
  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc. based in Huntington Beach California and servicing Orange County, Los Angeles County, and the Inland Empire. With over 30 years of aquarium experience, Craig specializes in creating custom aquarium designs along with aquarium installation, service, and maintenance.

  

  Craig Morton

  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Expert Answer

  You should change 25 percent of the water in the tank every 2 weeks to keep your fish healthy.

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  Thank you for your feedback.
  If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow

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• Question

  How can I keep my betta fish warm?

  

  Craig Morton
  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc. based in Huntington Beach California and servicing Orange County, Los Angeles County, and the Inland Empire. With over 30 years of aquarium experience, Craig specializes in creating custom aquarium designs along with aquarium installation, service, and maintenance.

  

  Craig Morton

  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Expert Answer

  I recommend using either a pad type heater for small fish bowls or a probe heater for larger aquariums.

  Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
  Thank you for your feedback.
  If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow

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• Question

  What medication can I use to treat fin rot?

  

  Craig Morton
  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc. based in Huntington Beach California and servicing Orange County, Los Angeles County, and the Inland Empire. With over 30 years of aquarium experience, Craig specializes in creating custom aquarium designs along with aquarium installation, service, and maintenance.

  

  Craig Morton

  Aquarium Specialist, CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc.

  Expert Answer

  API Bettafix is a medication you can buy in stores that will help cure fin rot.

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  Thank you for your feedback.
  If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow

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Tips

• Don't fret if your betta is changing colors. This is known as marbling and happens in most betta splendens. The only instances where changing colors may be a sign of sickness are when your fish fades or turns a paler shade of its previous color. This usually indicates that they are stressed or have a disease (like fin rot).
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• Tears in the fins may be due to rough rocks in the tank or plastic plants, so remove these. Keep the water in the tank warm and clean, and your Betta will heal itself.
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• If a Betta is lying down a lot, this may be due to an infection or because they’re bored, unhappy, or hungry. Ensure your fish’s needs are being met before treating them with medication.
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The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of wikiHow readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on wikiHow, please submit it in the field below.

• If you are unable to diagnose your betta's illness based on the visible symptoms, or if the disease resists standard treatments, an exotic fish veterinarian is your best resource. Veterinarians can identify more obscure diseases through laboratory testing, and also provide access to prescription medications not available over-the-counter.
• To prevent the spread of disease to your fish, always quarantine any new fish in a separate tank for several weeks before adding them to your main aquarium. Since some illnesses have long incubation periods without noticeable symptoms, quarantining lets you observe new fish for signs of disease. That protects your other fish.
• You should never treat your betta fish with disease medications without first properly diagnosing the specific illness. Bombarding fish with random antibiotic or antifungal treatments can be dangerous, or even counterproductive. It may also promote antibiotic-resistant superbugs.
• While dirty aquarium water easily spreads disease, do not overclean the tank by completely changing all the water and scrubbing too vigorously. That can remove helpful bacteria and crash the nitrogen cycle, further stressing your fish.
• Regularly test the water chemistry with liquid test kits instead of unreliable test strips. Improper pH, ammonia, nitrites or other imbalances stress fish and compromise immune systems, making them far more vulnerable to disease.
• Research all common betta fish diseases so you can recognize the symptoms early. The sooner you identify the illness, the faster you can start treatment, greatly improving recovery outcomes for your fish.

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Warnings

• Beware of fish tuberculosis (Mycobacterium marinum). It is contagious and fatal in fish, and it can also be spread to humans.

  • Symptoms in fish include: lethargy, popeye, and a deformed skeleton/bent spine.
  • Symptoms in humans include: a large cyst-like red lump, usually where the bacteria entered (i.e., an open cut). If you think you have fish TB, go to your doctor and specify that you own fish, or your doctor might misdiagnose you.
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