How to Grow Jasmine From Cuttings: 2 Easy Ways

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Learn to transplant cuttings & care for your jasmine plant

Co-authored by Maryana Lucia Vestic, MFA, M.Phil. Reviewed by Ben Barkan

Last Updated: July 1, 2025 Fact Checked

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• Growing Cuttings in Water
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• Growing Cuttings in Soil
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• Transplanting Cuttings
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• Caring for Jasmine Plants
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• Types of Jasmine
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• Video
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• Q&A

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Jasmine makes a lovely addition to any home or garden—when it blooms, it produces delicate, fragrant buds. If you want to have more jasmine plants or share some with friends, you can easily grow jasmine from cuttings taken from a healthy plant. Keep reading for 2 simple methods that encourage jasmine cuttings to take root and grow into new jasmine plants you can care for.

How to Grow a Jasmine Plant From a Cutting

To grow jasmine in water, cut a jasmine stem below the leaf nodes, remove any bottom leaves, and submerge it in a glass of water. To grow cuttings in soil, plant them into a pot of compost and coarse sand, and cover with a plastic bag or bottle to seal in the humidity. Both methods take 6-8 weeks for roots to grow.

Steps

Section 1 of 5:

How to Grow Jasmine From Cuttings in Water

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1. 
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   Cut 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) of a healthy stem using pruning scissors. It’s best to cut the stem just below a leaf node (the nub that the leaf grows from), which helps the stem sprout healthy roots more easily. Look for a flexible, green stem that grew during the jasmine’s growth spurt in spring or early summer.

   • Propagating plants like jasmine cuttings in water is considered quicker than the soil method and involves fewer steps. However, the soil method typically produces a stronger, more robust root system.
   • Avoid woody stems as they are more mature and not as likely to take root quickly or successfully.
   • It’s okay to take more than 1 cutting, as long as you don’t cut away more than one-third of the jasmine plant; taking more cuttings from your jasmine increases your chances of successfully growing a new plant.
   • If you don’t have pruning scissors, you can use a sharp knife or a pair of sharp scissors.
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   Snip off some of the leaves from the lower part of the stem. Doing this prevents any leaves from touching or being submerged in the water, which can cause rot. Leave 1-2 sets of jasmine leaves at the top of the cutting; it’s more likely to root if the top few leaves are left on the stem.

   • You can cut the leaves off the stem with pruning shears or scissors, or pluck them with your fingers.
   • Removing the leaves helps to balance the growth between roots and leaves.
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   Remove any flowers from the cutting. Flowers can divert the energy needed for successful root development and take nutrients from the rest of the plant to do so. Dying flowers will also mold, which can damage the rest of the cutting.

   • You can cut the flowers off or pinch them off.
   • Avoid taking cuttings from stems that are in bloom. Even if a flower is cut off, it will still be in the bloom stage.
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   Place the cutting(s) into a clean glass filled halfway with water. Ensure that at least 1 node is submerged in the water. Change the water every few days to prevent any mold, rot, or stagnation.

   • Nodes contain specialized cells that develop into new roots. Placing them in water helps encourage this growth from the inside out.
   • Keep any leaves on the jasmine cutting dry to prevent bacteria.
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   Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light for 6-8 weeks. After a few weeks, inspect the cuttings to see if the roots are visible. Once 6-8 weeks have passed and you can see multiple roots present, you can transplant the jasmine cuttings to a pot filled with soil.

   • Make sure there is a fairly strong network of roots that offer some resistance when you pull them before transplanting your jasmine cuttings into a pot.
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Section 2 of 5:

How to Grow Jasmine From Cuttings in Soil

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1. 
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   Cleanly cut a few 8 in (20 cm) to 10 in (25 cm) semi-hardwood stems. Be sure the stem has a few nodes, as you’ll be dividing it into smaller cuttings that require at least 2 nodes for each cutting. Divide these stems into several 4 in (10 cm) to 5 in (13 cm) pieces. Remove a few of the bottom leaves from each, so you don’t end up planting them beneath the soil, which can reduce water loss and prevent rot.

   • A semi-hardwood stem represents older growth in the current year, is pliable but beginning to harden, and is mature enough to sustain new growth.
   • A hardwood stem grew the previous year and appears brown, rigid, and already solidified. Avoid using this stem when growing jasmine cuttings, as it’s unlikely to produce a healthy root system.
   • A softwood stem is the newer growth of the current year that is still growing. It appears soft and green, and isn’t mature enough to sustain new growth when cut from the jasmine plant.
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   Fill a pot or container with a mixture of garden compost and coarse sand. It’s fine to use a single pot for several cuttings, as you will transplant them after they sprout roots. Instead of sand, you can also use perlite or vermiculite. Pour water over the soil before planting while allowing the excess to drain out through the holes at the bottom of the pot; this will help trap in humidity as the cuttings begin to root.

   • A small planter of about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) is ideal.
   • Choose a pot with drainage holes.
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   Dip your cutting(s) in root hormone before planting them (optional)l. Quickly coat the end of your stem with root hormone; it’s not necessary to soak it completely. Using the root hormone is optional. It’s known to encourage faster and stronger root growth for plant cuttings.

   • Root hormones come in powder and gel form.
   • Be sure to pour the root hormone into a clean container before dipping, then discard the used solution. Don’t dip the stem directly into your bottle of root hormone, as that will ruin the product.
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   Create a shallow hole for each cutting and insert them into the soil. Push a pencil deep enough into the soil so the bottom third of the stem can fit below the soil. Be sure that your hole is wide enough, so any root hormone you might use doesn’t rub off when you place the cutting into the soil. Gently press each cutting into the pencil holes you made. Then, use your fingers to fill in each hole around the cutting, while pressing the soil around the cutting.

   • Try to submerge at least 2 nodes into the soil, which will encourage new root growth.
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   Place a plastic bag or bottle cut in half over your plant. If using a plastic bag, fill it with air and twist the top closed, or cut a clean plastic bottle across the middle and place it over the cutting(s) to create a humidity dome. Either method will keep them moist as they take root and act as a mini-greenhouse. It’s important that the plastic bag not touch any part of the plant, as this can make the plant grow mold.

   • While in the initial stages of growth, ventilate the cutting(s) for a few hours each day to prevent mold or rot. Take this opportunity to spritz your cutting with water. Add more air to the plastic bag (if using) before sealing it up again. As the roots take hold, slowly remove the humidity dome to encourage them to grow without extra help.
   • If using a container with a lid, cover the cuttings with the lid instead of using a plastic bag or bottle.
   • Humidity activates the auxin hormone, which encourages the cutting(s) to root.
6. 
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   Place your cutting(s) in a bright, warm location for 6-8 weeks. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight; the ideal temperature is between 70 °F (21 °C) to 75 °F (24 °C). Continue to water the soil so it’s consistently moist, but not soggy. Test the roots after 4 weeks, but gently tugging on them—if they resist, your cuttings are ready to be transplanted into a new container. If the roots move easily, they need more time before transplanting.

   • It’s best to keep the cutting indoors during this time.
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Section 3 of 5:

How to Transplant Jasmine Cuttings to a Pot

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1. 
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   Use a 6-8-inch hanging basket or 14 inches (36 cm) wide pot with drainage holes. Like many transplanted plants, jasmine grows best in a large container, which you can place in a sunny spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. If your jasmine is a climbing variety, include a trellis or some kind of support structure so it has somewhere to grow.

   • Choose a container that has drainage holes at the bottom so any excess water can drain out; this will help prevent mold or rot.
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   Fill the pot with loose, all-purpose potting soil. Leave a small space in the middle of the container for the cutting. You’ll want to bury the bottom portion of the stem, just as you did when you sprouted the roots.

   • You can buy potting soil at a gardening store or online.
3. 
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   Cover the roots and lower part of the jasmine stem with soil. Bury the part of the plant that was beneath the soil during the rooting process. Pat the soil lightly around the transplanted cutting, so that the soil supports the plant.

   • Ensure that you don’t plant any leaves below the soil.
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   Water the jasmine enough to moisten the soil. Any excess water will flow away from the roots and out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the container.

   • Water the jasmine whenever the soil feels dry to the touch.
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   Place the pot where it will get at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Many types of jasmine thrive in full sun, especially in spring and summer. Check your local weather for sunrise and sunset times to figure out how many hours of direct sun your jasmine will receive.

   • During winter, it’s okay for your jasmine to get less direct sunlight, as this is its dormant period.
   • It doesn’t have to be 6 consecutive hours. For example, the jasmine may get 3 hours of sun in the morning and 3 hours of sun in the afternoon.
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Section 4 of 5:

Continuing to Care for Your Jasmine

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1. 
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   Water the jasmine daily during the spring and summer. When growing jasmine, be aware that it thrives in full sun during the summer, but all that sunlight can be very drying. Make sure that the soil is kept moist during the hot season by watering your jasmine every morning, so any excess water evaporates during the day.

   • It’s best to allow the soil to dry between waterings. You can check that the soil is dry by feeling it with your finger. Dry soil should feel loose. If your soil isn’t drying out every day, then you can reduce the number of waterings to every other day or twice a week.
   • Provide a high potassium fertilizer once a month. You can use a liquid or granular fertilizer, depending on your preferences. Good options include tomato fertilizer, seaweed fertilizer, or wood ash.
   • Reduce sunlight and watering to once or twice a week during winter. Plant specialist Melinda Meservy emphasizes that jasmine “doesn't need as much sun in winter because it's not photosynthesizing. Just treat it like a normal house plant. Give it the water it needs, but never let it sit or soak in it. Don't feed it when it's dormant, because it's sleeping. Imagine being asleep and somebody just walks up and starts giving you cake. It’s resting, so it’s not ready to take food in.”
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   Watch for signs of root rot. Jasmine is very susceptible to root rot; early signs include slow growth, yellowing leaves, dying leaves, dark roots, and limp roots. If you notice these signs, your plant may have root rot, which can be treated with a fungicide.

   • You can get a plant fungicide in a gardening store or online.
   • Avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.
3. 
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   Protect against mealybugs by applying a natural insecticide. The best options are neem oil, horticultural oil, or insecticidal soap weekly. Jasmine is very susceptible to mealybugs, which enjoy eating the plant.

   • If your jasmine is outdoors, then the best way to prevent mealybugs is to support your lady beetle and spider populations.
   • If you spot mealybugs on your plant, you can dab 70% isopropyl alcohol directly onto the bugs, which may kill them.
4. 
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   Use small pruning shears to shape your winter jasmine in late spring. This is right after the jasmine blooms. Prune the jasmine to your desired shape. Remove any weak or crossed branches.

   • Don’t trim more than one-third of the plant at a time.
   • Meservy also suggests pruning your jasmine after the flowers drop off. “Make sure that you're still caring for it as a plant because the leaves will still feed the roots. When the bloom dies, people think it's dead—but it's not. The leaves are still happy; it's just not in bloom. Don't expect jasmine to be blooming all the time. It'll go kind of dormant or at least drop its blooms for the better part of the year, and then it'll bloom again and be beautiful in the spring. It just takes extra awareness and care.”
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   Prune summer jasmine late in the summer season after it blooms. Use a pair of small pruning shears—you can shape the jasmine as desired. Cut any branches that feel thin or weak, as well as those that are crossing over each other.

   • Make sure that you don’t prune more than one-third of the plant at 1 time.
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Section 5 of 5:

Different Types of Jasmine

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1. 
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   Summer-blooming jasmine Summer-flowering jasmine appears as vines which have clusters of small, star-shaped white flowers. They’re known for their fragrant, sweet scent and dark green, glossy foliage. Summer jasmine can bloom periodically throughout the year.

   • Hardiness: Can tolerate warm, sunny areas as well as shade.
   • Soil: Well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6 and 7.
   • Watering: Water in-ground plants once a week; water more if it’s overly hot or dry.
   • Pruning: Prune after flowering in late summer or early fall.
   • Indoor Care: Bright, indirect sunlight; moist, but not soggy soil.
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   Winter-blooming jasmine Winter jasmine is a bushy shrub that has bright yellow, funnel-shaped flowers on green stems. The dark green leaves appear after the flowers bloom in late winter or early spring. Winter jasmine can be sprawling and is often used as ground cover.

   • Hardiness: Can tolerate winter temps as low as −10 °F (−23 °C), as well as various levels of humidity.
   • Soil: Well-drained, moderately fertile soil with 6 to 7.5 pH.
   • Watering: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch; avoid overwatering.
   • Pruning: Prune immediately after flowering occurs in the spring.
   • Indoor Care: Bright, indirect light; cool temperatures 60 °F (16 °C) to 75 °F (24 °C); avoid fertilization during winter.
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• Question

  Can ericaceous peat be used used for potting jasmine cuttings?

  

  Ninox

  Top Answerer

  Yes, but you have to mix it with sand and add gravel at the bottom of the pot.

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